Table of Contents
What is Skin Barrier?
How Does the Skin Barrier Get Compromised?
Skin Barrier Boosting Ingredients
- Ceramide
- Centella Asiatica
- Squalane
- Beta Glucan
- Glycerin
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Allantoin
- Panthenol or Provitamin B5
- Niacinamide
- Sunscreen
Red Flags to Look Out for
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
- Drying Alcohols
- Fragrances
- Higher Percentage of Actives (Retinol, Tretinoin, AHAs & BHAs)
- Alkaline Soaps with high pH.
What is Skin Barrier?
We often come across the phrase “skin barrier” or “skin barrier repair” when we talk about skincare. But what exactly is a skin barrier, and how do we repair it? What happens when it gets disrupted, and how do we fix it or strengthen it? This blog answers all such questions.
As the name suggests, the skin barrier is the first line of defense to protect your skin from environmental damage, bacteria, water loss, and free radicals. Think of your skin barrier as an armor or a brick wall. It is the outermost layer of your skin made of dead cells, proteins, lipids, and fats. Your skin barrier is a part of the stratum corneum, which is made up of corneocytes (the bricks) and lipids (mortar) that hold the bricks together. A healthy skin barrier is the first step to fixing your pesky skin issues.
How Does the Skin Barrier Get Compromised?
Your skin barrier can get disrupted or compromised due to internal factors like having an underlying medical condition. But it can also get compromised due to external factors and things you do and don’t do for your skin. The factors that can disrupt your skin barrier include prolonged UV exposure, stress, the use of harsh chemicals, poor sleep, dehydration, and over-exfoliation. A healthy skin barrier plays a crucial role in maintaining your overall skin health. With a compromised skin barrier, your skin becomes prone to acne, redness, and sensitivity.
Now, you don’t need to follow a never-ending, time-consuming, burning-holes-in-your-pockets skin care routine for boosting your skin barrier. You can take the first step towards repairing and strengthening your skin care barrier, even with a cleanser, moisturiser, and sunscreen (based on your skin type). In addition, good sleep, a healthy diet, and hydration are non-negotiable when it comes to skin healing.
Skin Barrier Boosting Ingredients
Here are some skin barrier boosting ingredients that you should look for while buying your skin care products:
1. Ceramides
Ceramides are the most effective ingredient for repairing and strengthening the skin barrier.
Think of it as the ghee that holds the laddoo (your skin cells). Without adequate ghee, the material of laddoos doesn’t bind together and starts to crumble. Ceramides are essential lipid (fat) molecules that hold your skin cells together, lock in moisture, prevent water loss, and keep irritants at bay. Make sure your skin care product(s) have at least three essential ceramides- type 1, 3, and 6-II.
2. Centella Asiatica
A botanical active that has been proven to be effective in repairing the skin barrier is Centella Asiatica. It soothes inflammation, improves healing, and reduces redness and irritation on the skin. It’s a powerful antioxidant that helps repair sun damage, prevent transepidermal water loss, support collagen production, and heals UV induced skin damage. Centella Asiatica is also an effective ingredient for individuals with acne-prone skin.
3. Squalane
A natural antioxidant that mimics your skin’s natural oil, Squalane is essential in restoring your skin barrier. The squalene (with an ‘e’) is the natural oil that your skin produces that keeps it moisturised and protects from dryness, flakiness, or patches, but with age, there is a reduction in squalene production. Hence, an ingredient that can mimic your skin’s natural oil is great for strengthening your skin barrier. It is extracted from olives, rice bran, amaranth, and wheat germ.
4. Beta Glucan
Beta Glucan is a powerful humectant that helps reduce skin inflammation and repair the skin barrier. It draws and retains water in your skin, making it resilient against UV damage, environmental pollution, and damage from free radicals. It also supports the production of collagen and other lipids for a healthy skin barrier. Beta-Glucan is extracted from natural sources like oats, yeasts, mushrooms, rye, and barley.
5. Glycerin
The good-ol’ humble glycerin is perhaps a familiar ingredient for many. It is a humectant that draws water from the air to the skin’s deeper layers to keep it hydrated. The best part about glycerin is that it doesn’t clog pores, is quite moisturizing, and is well-tolerated by people of all skin types. Glycerin is the most commonly used skin care ingredient that you often find in the first 5 to 7 ingredients of a skin care product that claims to be moisturizing or hydrating.
6. Hyaluronic Acid
Another humectant on the list is Hyaluronic Acid (HA), which attracts and retains moisture in the skin, plumps it, and improves fine lines, wrinkles, and signs of early aging. If your skin barrier is compromised, chances are your skin is dehydrated to the max. Regular use of HA softens rough patches and improves skin elasticity. However, as we age, this naturally occurring humectant in our bodies starts to decline; a topical application of hyaluronic acid helps your skin barrier regain its strength.
7. Allantoin
Allantoin is a natural ingredient extracted from plants like comfrey, chamomile, and sugar beet, as well as produced synthetically to use in skincare products. It minimises skin stress, calms irritation, and reduces redness. It speeds up the skin cells’ regeneration process and acts as a water magnet for the skin, making it bouncier and firmer. People with dry, sensitive, and dehydrated skin (which are all signs of a compromised skin barrier) can use allantoin in their skin care routine in the form of moisturisers, serum, eye cream, or cleanser.
8. Panthenol or Provitamin B5
Panthenol helps in lipid synthesis and prevents transepidermal water loss. The active helps calm irritation and soothes redness. When panthenol is absorbed by the body, it becomes provitamin B5. It has humectant properties and also supports wound healing, injuries, and sunburn. So if your skin barrier has been damaged by sun rays or prolonged UV exposure, look for skin care products with panthenol in them.
9. Niacinamide
Think of niacinamide as a multi-tasker hero ingredient, found in almost every skincare product. It helps with hydration, fine lines, wrinkles, ceramide production, brightens, and even tones skin, among many other functions. Niacinamide is also the most versatile skin care ingredient that can be paired with other ingredients. Combining Niacinamide with Hyaluronic acid in your skin care routine enhances hydration. Plus, it is a well-tolerated ingredient by all skin types, including dry/patchy skin, sensitive, and acne-prone skin.
10. Sunscreen
Sunscreen is that product without which no morning skincare routine is complete. If UV damage and prolonged exposure to the sun cause damage to the skin barrier, what do you think will prevent it? A consistent and liberal application of sunscreen throughout the day will protect your skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays. Look for fragrance-free, mineral-based sunscreen if you have sensitive skin. Also, look for new age sunscreen filters (Tinosorb S/M, Mexoryl, and Uvinul A Plus) the next time you buy a sunscreen, which offers better protection from UV rays.
Red Flags to Look Out for:
If your skin barrier is already compromised, you should definitely avoid red flags in your skin care as well as makeup products.
1. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
SLS or detergent is used in soaps, face wash, washing detergents, etc. High and prolonged exposure to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) can cause an impaired skin barrier function. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) is used in detergents to loosen oil and dirt, but its overuse, especially on our skin, can cause it to lose its natural oils, making it dry and sensitive.
2. Drying Alcohols
If your skin care products have ethanol, denatured alcohol, or isopropyl alcohol, you might want to reconsider their usage. These alcohols are drying in nature; they strip the natural oils of the skin and cause transepidermal water loss, which is a leading cause of a compromised skin barrier.
3. Fragrances
Not all fragrances will damage your skin barrier, especially if you have a normal skin type. But if you have sensitive or dry and damaged skin, you may want to skip products that have intensive fragrances, as these fragrances can make your skin more sensitive, dry, and prone to irritation. Apart from pleasing the sense of smell or making the smell of other ingredients in your moisturiser or cleanser, there is no other benefit of having it.
4. Higher Percentage of Actives (Retinol, Tretinoin, AHAs & BHAs)
If you start using any product that has a high percentage of active ingredients like retinol, AHAs, or BHAs (something more than your skin can handle), it can cause damage to your skin barrier, causing redness, inflammation, and extreme damage. If you want to start using Retinol, Tretinoin, AHAs & BHAs in your skin care, always consult your dermatologist. Do not start using them because your favourite influencer used them to fix something. Your skin is way too precious for fleeting skincare trends.
5. Alkaline Soaps with high pH.
The normal pH range of your skin is 4.5-5.5 (acidic). Alkaline soapswith (pH 7-10) can disrupt your skin pH levels, making it prone to sensitivity, dehydration, and cause moisture loss. No matter how much you’re tempted to use artisanal, handcrafted, fragrant soaps, please avoid them if you’re dealing with a compromised skin barrier.
So, the next time you go shopping, you know which ingredients to look for in your skin care products and which ones to avoid. Even with a minimalistic skincare routine, you can slowly but surely repair your skin barrier. Happy Healing!
Disclaimer:
The information shared in this blog is intended for educational and informational purposes only. It is not meant to be, and should not be considered, medical advice or a substitute for professional medical guidance. Skincare is not one-size-fits-all. Every person’s skin is different and may react differently to ingredients, products, or routines discussed here.
The author is a skincare enthusiast, not a licensed medical professional. While every effort is made to ensure accuracy and relevance, the author bears no responsibility for any adverse effects, reactions, or outcomes resulting from the use of information, products, or recommendations mentioned in this article.
If you have a skin condition or concerns, please consult a qualified dermatologist or healthcare professional before making changes to your skincare routine.